Looking for a place to make a weekend jaunt for a little hiking
and lots of breathtaking scenery? Consider the Whiteside Mountain
region between Highlands and Cashiers.
Whiteside Mountain, situated between Highlands and Cashiers alongside
U.S. 64, is one of the most striking landmarks in the southern Blue
Ridge province. It rises 2,100 feet from the valley floor to its
summit at 4,930 feet along the eastern continental divide. The headwater
feeder systems for rivers, like the Cullasaja on one side of this
massive granite outcrop, eventually flow into the Mississippi and
Gulf of Mexico, while waters on the opposite side flow into the
Savannah and on to the Atlantic.
Retired Western Carolina University biologist Jim Horton, in his
chapter on the natural aspects of the region in The History of Jackson
County (1987), describes the mountain as follows: Whiteside
Mountain is a pluton; that is, it originated as a molten
intrusion probably far below what was then the surface. Its rock
is Devonian in age, about 390 million years old. The fact that it
is now so nearly exposed bears witness to the power of erosion,
which has all but washed away the soil and softer rocks which once
covered it.
Retired Clemson University biologist Robert Zahner, a longtime Highlands
resident, has written the definitive study of the mountain.
In The Mountain at the End of the Trail: A History of Whiteside
Mountain (1994), he notes that the Whiteside pluton is technically
not a single mountain about one mile in length but a massif
extending about four miles; that is, it includes the Devils
Courthouse on the northwest and Wildcat Ridge on the southwest (while)
the width of the massif averages only about one-half mile.
And he also notes that the south-facing cliffs are more dramatic
in regard to vertical relief because the mechanical weathering
of rock is greater on the sunny side.
Such a prominent feature of the landscape naturally attracted the
attention of the early Cherokee, who called it Unaka
— their word for white. They associated various legends with
its cliffs, caves and pinnacles. It is thought to have been an early
crossroads for Indian trails that laced the mountain region. The
Cherokees built their villages in river bottoms for agricultural
reasons. But they no doubt frequented Whiteside while traveling
and hunting.
Some have even asserted that Hernando de DeSoto and his men crossed
over the mountain in the 16th century, leaving a mysterious inscription.
A North Carolina state roadside marker in Highlands officially commemorates
his travels as the first tourist (just kidding) in 1540.
That improbable notion has been thoroughly debunked by T.W. Reynolds,
who in his book The Southern Appalachian Region (1966) established
that the Spanish inscription was perpetrated as a hoax
by a local Highlands youth between 1925 and 1930.
Aside from its distinctive human lore, its distinctive natural aspects
make Whiteside Mountain and its immediate area a place well worth
taking a closer look at and exploring. Winter is an especially good
time to visit the region since views are not impeded by foliage
and traffic on the backroads is not heavy.
From the designated U.S. Forest Service parking area (situated off
the Wildcat Ridge Road near its junction with U.S. 64 northeast
of Highlands), one can access a USFS 2-mile loop trail to the top
of the mountain. The panoramic view down into the Chattooga River
valley and into Georgia and South Carolina is — to use an
overused description that is nevertheless apt — breathtaking.
Farther east on U.S. 64 towards Cashiers, there are clear views
of the Devils Courthouse area. These shaded, north-facing
cliffs are dark in appearance because they are covered with mosses
and lichens that thrive in such a cool, moist environment. The springs
and small creeks gathering in this section form the utmost headwaters
of the Chattooga.
An excellent view of the vastly different vertical cliffs of Whiteside
Mountain can be obtained by taking U.S. 107 south from Cashiers
and turning right onto S.R. 1604 opposite High Hampton into the
highly picturesque Whiteside Cove area of Jackson County.
From here the cliffs appear grayish-white since they have been exposed
to the weathering and drying effects of the wind and sunlight. Lichens
and mosses have not been able to gain a foothold in this environment
and the light colored feldspars of the Whiteside granite
are apparent.
This is the upper Chattooga region, a world apart from the macho,
river-riding realm of the lower South Carolina portion of the Chattooga
depicted in the 1970s movie Deliverance based on James
Dickeys novel. The upper Chattooga is a meandering valley
stream that becomes, as it approaches the state line, a brawling,
rock-strewn watercourse passing through rugged gorges.
At the end of S.R. 1604, a right turn takes one five miles through
Horse Cove up to Highlands; a left down the Bull Pen Road leads
eight miles to U.S. 107 (seven miles south of Cashiers).
George Ellison is a writer who lives in Bryson City. He wrote
the biographical introductions for the reissues of two Appalachian
classics: Horace Kepharts Our Southern Highlanders and James
Mooneys History, Myths, and Sacred Formulas of the Cherokees.
Readers can contact him at P.O. Box 1262, Bryson City, N.C. 28713,
or at ellisongeorge@cs.com