The elk reintroduction program initiated by Great Smoky Mountains
National Park officials in Cataloochee Valley has been, as it should
be, all the rage in local, state and national media outlets. Accordingly,
its surprising that a previous elk reintroduction
at Hooper Bald in Graham County near Robbinsville has been neglected
in this spate of coverage. Its one hell of a story that involves
elk, wild boar, bears, buffaloes, and lots of other critters.
The primary sources for this tale are a 29-page pamphlet by Perry
Jones entitled The European Wild Boar in North Carolina
(North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission, 1959) and Alberta
and Carson Brewers Valley So Wild: A Folk History
(East Tennessee Folk Society, 1975). Michael Fromes Stranger
in High Places: The Story of the Great Smoky Mountains National
Park (Doubleday & Company, 1966) is also worth consulting,
as is the Graham County Centennial (1872-1972) memorial
publication.
In the early part of the 20th century, Hooper Bald (named for Dr.
Enos Hooper, who cut trails in the area) was about as remote as
one could get in the southern mountains, excepting, maybe, some
of the higher portions of the Smokies range to the immediate northeast.
Hooper Bald, as the name implies, is one of the mysterious natural
grassy balds that are found in the southern mountains from southwestern
Virginia into north Georgia. At that time the grassy area atop the
mountain at 5,529 feet above sea level was an irregular triangle
about 15 acres in extent.
Situated about a mile east of the state line with Tennessee, Hooper
Bald is 10 air miles from Robbinsville to the east and 12 from Andrews
to the south. Its not all that accessible today, and back
then it was plumb remote.
In 1908, an English timber-investment concern, the Whiting Manufacturing
Company, purchased a vast amount of land in the region that included
Hooper Bald. The company decided to float a loan of $2 million dollars,
and George Gordon Moore, one of their advisers, agreed to be their
financial agent.
Moore — described by one local to the Brewers as a plunger
and by another as rich today and poor tomorrow —
was successful in this regard and was rewarded with the right to
establish a game preserve of 1,600 or so acres in the Hooper Bald
region. His objective was to wine and dine and otherwise entertain
wealthy friends and potential clients with a little hunting so to
encourage them to invest in his various companies located in the
United States and abroad.
The scenic grassy bald area was a natural spot to locate a lodge
and the pens for grazing animals. A road was initiated to the bald
in 1909 and by the winter of 1911, construction on a large fenced
game lot began. Two locals, Walt Wiggins and Will Engle, hauled
25 tons of wire to Hooper Bald for one dollar per 100 pounds. The
fence, nailed to trees and exceeding 10 feet in height, was completed
in 1911. Surrounding the bald, the buffalo lot as it
was called, lacked just 250 feet of being a mile in circumference.
A smaller lot of 550 or so acres called the boar lot
was located farther down from the lodge. It was encompassed by a
fence of split rails 9 rails high. There were also smaller game
enclosures, elaborate dog kennels, a horse trail, and a telephone
line strung through the woodlands that connected the lodge with
the outside world via a connection at Marble, North Carolina, west
of Andrews.
Beginning in 1912, the preserve was stocked with eight buffaloes,
14 elk, 6 Colorado mule deer, 34 bears (9 of which were Russian
brown bears), 200 wild turkeys, 10,000 English ring-neck pheasant
eggs, and 13 wild boar. For good measure, Moore also purchased 150
sheep and 150 turkeys locally.
These animals were shipped from around the world to railhead at
Murphy. Capt. Frank Swan, a local drover, was employed to meet the
train and move them to the preserve with his train of 6 wagons that
utilized two yoke of oxen per wagon. It was 25 miles across some
of the roughest terrain imaginable from Murphy to the preserve at
Hooper Bald.
We headed out over a dirt track for Hooper Bald by way of
Hanging Dog and the old Jap Fain place, recalled Swan. It
took us three days for each trip.
Ah yes! ... does the George Gordon Moore game-preserve scheme sound
all too familiar to those of you who have lived here in the mountains
for a lifetime or for a good while? ... such schemes arise and the
they fall ... they come in on the wings of wild dreams and the greased
tracks of big money ... and then, ever so frequently, they crumble
and fall in the wink of an eye ... here we go.
Almost immediately, Jones writes, blows of adversity
began to strike the preserve. Some of the big bears promptly climbed
out of the wire stockade, and since several of them had come from
zoos, they would proceed to the clubhouse for food. The thought
of a large bear appearing at any moment made sleeping extremely
difficult. In order to return a bear to the lot, two men would have
to lasso each of his front feet, pull him around a tree, and securely
bind both pairs of feet together on the opposite side of the tree.
Next a pole was placed across the back of his neck, and his chin
was pushed up firmly against the tree. While two men would hold
this pole, another would put a collar securely around the bears
neck. Two chains were then snapped on the collar. The pole and ropes
were then removed, the bear was collared, and the two
men at the extreme end of the chain would hold the bear off each
other. This procedure was described as spread-eagling
a bear. The bear quickly fell prey to sharpshooting mountaineers
and all the other animals rather quickly faded away in an environment
they couldnt cope with ....
All, that is, except the elk and the wild boar. Area residents have
long referred to the wild boar as the Russian (or Roossian)
wild boar, but Jones speculates that they actually came from Germany.
At any rate, they were the only ones to escape from the preserve
and survive, to this day, in the surrounding mountains. Established
in 1934, the 520,000-acre Great Smoky Mountains National Park has
become their prime sanctuary despite extended shooting and trapping
campaigns by the park service to eradicate them due to their destructive
habits.
Although one cant really claim that the Hooper Bald elk were
properly reintroduced — after all, the ultimate
objective was to shoot them, not to allow them to reproduce and
thrive — the elk nevertheless survived for awhile
on their own; however, the exact circumstances are unclear. Its
probable that some were penned and others roamed the general area.
All sources agree that the original elk herd at the
bald was comprised of 14 animals. Some sources maintain that the
herd reached a maximum of just over 30 head ... others maintain
that the number reached 75 head. As is often the instance, it was
probably somewhere in between.
Twenty-five elk were rounded up by Cotton McGuire — Moores
longtime foreman who was deeded the preserve in the mid-1920s —
and sold to the North Carolina Game Division. Some of these animals
were released on Mt. Mitchell. Sportsmen also paid McGuire $75 for
the right to come to Hooper Bald and kill an elk. McGuire lived
on Hooper Bald for 30 years with his family. They often dined on
wild boar and elk. Jones reports that the last elk was killed
by Claude Hyde, now living in Robbinsville, but he doesnt
provide a date. The Brewers suggested that they lasted until
about 1935.
So ends the saga of the original elk reintroduction
project in the Smokies region.
George Ellison is a writer who lives in Bryson City. He wrote
the biographical introductions for the reissues of two Appalachian
classics: Horace Kepharts Our Southern Highlanders and James
Mooneys History, Myths, and Sacred Formulas of the Cherokees.
Readers can contact him at P.O. Box 1262, Bryson City, N.C. 28713,
or at ellisongeorge@cs.com