The
courthouse is less old than the town, which began somewhere under
the turn of the century as a Chickasaw Agency trading post and so
continued for almost thirty years ... The settlement had records ...
accumulating slowly for those three decades in a sort of iron pirate
chest in the back room of the post-office-trading-post-store, until
that day thirty years later when, because of a jailbreak compounded
by an ancient monster padlock transported a thousand miles by horseback
from Carolina, the box was removed to a small new leanto room like
a work- or tool-shed built two days ago against one outside wall of
the morticed-log mud-chinked shake-down jail; and thus was born the
Yoknapatawpha County courthouse.
William Faulkner,
Requiem for a Nun (1950)
Thats Faulkners rendering of how first the county records,
then the county jail, and finally the courthouse itself were created
in his mythical Yoknapatawpha County in Mississippi in the 19th
century. Faulkner knew a lot about those sorts of things. He thought
about them, and they worked their way into his fabulous renderings
of the brooding cultural heritage of the Old South. He knew that
jailhouses were as important as courthouses and sometimes even preceded
them in existence.
When was the last time you visited your local jailhouse? Hopefully,
it wasnt a forced or overextended visit. If not, you probably
havent checked it out lately unless youre a local journalist
or involved with the court system in some manner.
It used to be, however, well over a century ago, that folks paid
a lot of attention to jails. They visited them, and communities
throughout Western North Carolina took some pride in the uniqueness
of their particular facilities. Travelers passing through inspected
jails as part of their agenda. Scribbling journalists described
them in some detail for readers, mostly Yankees, interested in the
quaint devices to be found in the southern mountains, where outlandish
things were supposed to occur with regularity. And sometimes they
did.
I recently purchased the September 1880 issue of the Harpers
New Monthly Magazine (published by Harper & Brothers in New
York City) for $4 from an antiquarian bookseller in New Orleans.
I ordered that particular issue via the Internet because I knew
it contained part III of Rebecca Harding Davis By-Paths
in the Mountains. Like all the travel writers who toured WNC
in the latter days of the 18th century, Davis described the scenic
wonders (especially the waterfalls and high vistas), thrilling sports
(especially trout fishing and bear hunting), the Cherokees (the
aborigines of the region), the white settlers (always in their picturesque
cabins, and the municipal improvements, such as they were. In this
latter regard, jails were one of their priorities. If he or she
didnt write a bang-up description of at least one of the local
jails, the sponsoring publications editor would have to reckoned
with upon return home.
After visiting Cherokee, where she found the Nation
hidden in the thickets among the ravines of the Soco and Ownolufta
hills (where they) were said to have ten thousand acres under cultivation,
Miss Davis proceeded to Webster, and from there to Haywood
County. Upon reading this account, the Eastern Band members must
have been pleasantly astonished to learn that they owned so much
property.
A day or two later, she relates in the third person,
when they were snugly ensconced again with Mrs. Bright in
their favorite village of Waynesville, the Judge caught sight of
a prisoner whom an armed man was escorting into the lonely little
jail, which stood in a field overgrown with goldenrod.
Now the landlord was also, as it happened, the jailer. Hixley
waited until evening, when he was going down the street, jingling
his bunch of keys, and followed by Sam, the waiter, swinging the
prisoners supper in a pail.
I would like to look at your jail, said the Judge.
Very good, sir. Only one prisoner there now. Weve
had as many as three there for murder at once. Sent from other counties.
Our jails about the only one thatll hold in the mountains.
He pushed open the door, and led the way up a flight of stairs,
and thrust up a huge iron trap-door. I had five men one night
sleeping on this at once, and most of the men in the village outside,
armed and keeping guard. There was talk of a rescue of those three.
Did they escape?
Well, yes, but not that night.
The cage, which forms a part of every Carolina jail, was a
square room of stout iron bars, built in the centre of a larger
one. It was much better ventilated and lighted than an ordinary
cell. The prisoner was chained to the floor, not so closely, however,
but that he could stand erect.
One of the illustrations that accompanied the article is reproduced
here. It depicts one Polly Leduc, who had traveled by foot over
the Balsams from somewhere near Webster, with her baby on
her back, still in its wolf-skin, sucking its thumb, to visit
her incarcerated husband. Mr. Leduc was charged with murder. His
defense was a good one: Some fellows came after my still ...
and I hed a right to defend my property. I didnt mean to kill
him, God knows.
Unbeknownst to the jailer, Mrs. Leduc had brought more with her
over mountain than just a baby sucking its thumb.
But in the morning the cage was empty, Miss Davis relates,
and they never saw Polly nor the poor little chap in the wolf-skin
again. She had brought a spring saw and cold-chisel to her husband,
with which he had easily cut the bars.
Most murderers breaks jail in the mountings, said
a philosophic cancer doctor who came that way a day or two later.
The jails is not strong, and the prejudice of the people agin
the moonshiners isnt strong either. They takes to the mountings,
as this young man an his wife hes done. They can lay hid thar
for years — comfortable.
Shades of Eric Rudolph?
Lets close out our little survey of WNC jailhouses circa the
early 1880s with a description provided by Wilbur G. Zeigler and
Ben S. Grossscup of the Bryson City facility in The Heart of the
Alleghanies or Western North Carolina (1883), one of my favorite
books. Bryson City was then known as Charleston, N.C., the name
not being changed until 1889 by the General Assembly because much
of the village mail was being misdirected to South Carolina. Before
making their obligatory visit to Cherokee, Zeigler and Grosscup
visited Charleston, a pleasant little village ... situated
by the Tuckasege river at the foot of Rich mountain, to take
a look at the jail. They had no doubt read Miss Davis description
of the Wayneville facility and wanted to outdo her, if possible.
In my unbiased estimation, they did.
The old, frame court-house has its upper story used as a grand
jury room, and its lower floor ... holds the jail. The dark interior
of the cage, used for petty misdoers, can be seen under
the front outside stairs, through a door with barred window. An
apartment fitted up for the jailer is on the same floor, and, by
a spiked, open slit, about six inches by two feet in dimensions,
is connected with the dungeon. For its peculiar purposes
this dungeon is built on a most approved pattern. It is a log room
within a log room, the space between the log walls filled up with
rocks. It is wholly inside the frame building. Besides the opening
where the jailer may occasionally peek in, is another one, similar
to that described, where a few pale rays of daylight or moonlight,
as the case may be, can, by struggling, filter through clapboards,
two log walls, spikes, and rocks, to the gloomy interior. A pad-locked
trapdoor in the floor above is the only entrance. The daily rations
for ye solitary culprit, like all blessings, come from above —
through the trapdoor. Here, suspected unfortunates of a desperate
stripe awaiting trial, and convicted criminals, biding their day
of departure for the penitentiary or gallows, are confined in dismal
twilight, and in turn are raised by a summons from above, and a
ladder cautiously lowered through the opening in the floor.
Faulkner would have relished that description. And it was no doubt
a fortunate circumstance for Mr. Leduc that he wasnt placed
in the Swain County jail rather than the more airy one over in Haywood
County. Even poor Polly might not have been able to
devise an escape in that event.
George Ellison is a writer who lives in Bryson City. He wrote
the biographical introductions for the reissues of two Appalachian
classics: Horace Kepharts Our Southern Highlanders and James
Mooneys History, Myths, and Sacred Formulas of the Cherokees.
Readers can contact him at P.O. Box 1262, Bryson City, N.C. 28713,
or at ellisongeorge@cs.com