Kephart
and the Great Smokies
By George Ellison
Editors Note: 2004
marks the 100th anniversary of Horace Kepharts arrival in the
Smokies region. A series of five Back Then columns initiated four
weeks ago has examined various aspects of his life and career. The
first column detailed Kepharts flight in mid-summer of 1904
into the Western North Carolina mountains, where by November of that
year he had secured the use of a cabin at an abandoned copper mine
on the Little Fork of the Sugar Fork of Hazel Creek in the Great Smokies.
The second described the years lived alone at the cabin site, which
subsequently became a part of the Great Smoky Mountains National.
The third took a closer look at how Kephart gathered and ordered the
materials that became Our Southern Highlanders, first published in
1913. In the fourth we examined his activities in Bryson City (1910-1931),
particularly some of the details surrounding his death via an automobile
accident. We conclude the series this week with an overview of his
role in the founding of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
I wish I could name every one of the men and women who have
worked devotedly to see this new national park come into being,
but I am sure you will join me in appreciation of the persistent
and idealistic interest of Mr. Kephart, who not only loved these
mountains and loved the people, but saw in them a national treasure.
— Ray Lyman Wilbur, Secretary of the Interior, Washington,
D.C., November 1931
The Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP) wasnt officially
founded until 1934, three years after Horace Kepharts death
in April 1931. But Kephart died knowing that the park was going
to be a reality. Indeed, shortly before his death, he had represented
Swain County in Washington, D.C., when state park officials from
North Carolina and Tennessee transferred the titles of the lands
purchased by them to be used for the GSMNP over to the United States
government.
Since the early 1920s, Kephart had devoted almost all of his time
and energy to the establishment of the GSMNP, the first large park
east of the Mississippi. His inner motivation can be readily surmised.
He had arrived in the Smokies region seeking a Back of Beyond
where he might engage in a healing process that involved a backcountry
lifestyle. And that place of refuge was exactly what he found, especially
when he resided alone from 1904-1907 in the remote cabin site deep
in the heart of the Smokies. That period became for him a spiritual
touchstone of sorts, providing the vivid experiences that fueled
his desire to see the region preserved as a national
park. His public explanation was to the point: I owe my life
to these mountains, and I want them preserved that others might
benefit by them as I have. It was that simple.
Kephart joined forces with the splendid Japanese photographer George
Masa, whose studio was located in Asheville but who spent as much
time in Bryson City and the Smokies with Kep as he could.
They were close friends and a formidable duo when it came to promoting
the national park concept: Kephart wrote magazine and newspaper
articles articulating the concept that were illustrated by Masas
scenic images.
A seminal publication of this sort was a large-format pamphlet titled
A National Park in the Great Smoky Mountains (Bryson
City, N.C.: The Swain County Chamber of Commerce, 1925). One needs
to keep in mind that Kephart — never the complete loner he
is often depicted as being — was a member of the Swain County
Chamber, as was his friend Kelly Bennett, a pharmacist who served
several terms in the state legislature.
The pamphlet consisted of Kepharts text, which explored topics
like Why National Parks Are Needed, A New Wonderland,
The Forest of the Great Smokies, Roads To The
New Park, and Ideal Camping Country. Five Masa
photos visually enhanced this text. These included a cover shot
titled Sunrise in the Smokies (probably taken from Andrews
Bald) that captured mist rising in the valleys far below. There
were also two full-page maps. One provided the big picture, depicting
Main Routes to Neighboring States from the mid-Atlantic
states. The other provided a close-up perspective of The Smoky
Mountains National Park And Its Environs in relation to Western
North Carolina and east Tennessee. This sort of systematic approach
became a hallmark of the park movement.
Rightly, no single individual has been recognized as the Father
or Mother of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
Many on both the state and national levels contributed significantly.
The fairest and most readable overview of this aspect of the parks
history is put forth in Daniel S. Pierces The Great Smokies:
From Natural Habitat to National Park (Knoxville, University of
Tennessee Press, 2000). Pierce is correct when he categorizes Kepharts
contributions among the heroic efforts of regional boosters
like David Chapman, Ann Davis, W.P. Davis, Horace Kephart, Mark
Squires, and Charles Webb. Kepharts name, however, has
stood out through the years; in part, because his contributions
were substantive, but also because he — unlike all others
— wrote Our Southern Highlanders and become a colorful, somewhat
controversial and widely-recognized figure. On the national level
his was the name most closely associated with the southern mountains
in general and the GSMNP in particular.
Its not improbable that — despite the occasional carping
by would-be revisionists — this will continue to be the case.
From the ridge above Kepharts gravesite one has a panoramic
view out over Bryson City up the Deep Creek watershed to the high
ridgeline that divides North Carolina and Tennessee. Newfound Gap,
where U.S. 441 crosses the state line between Cherokee and Gatlinburg,
is clearly delineated. One could stop there at the parking area,
read a plaque stating that this is the spot where President F.D.
Roosevelt dedicated the GSMNP in 1940, and then walk north a few
miles along the Appalachian Trail to Mt. Kephart.
Two months before his death, Kephart was honored by a decision of
the U.S. Geographic Board designating that this peak at 6,217 feet
be so named. Some years later a rise on the southwestern side of
Mt. Kephart was named Masa Knob. At that spot the contributions
of the two friends — mountain spirits, if you will —
are properly commemorated.
George Ellison is a writer who lives in Bryson City. He wrote the
biographical introductions for the reissues of two Appalachian classics:
Horace Kepharts Our Southern Highlanders and James Mooneys
History, Myths, and Sacred Formulas of the Cherokees. Readers can
contact him at P.O. Box 1262, Bryson City, N.C. 28713, or at ellisongeorge@cs.com.
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