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7/17/02
Running
for your life or just a sweet tune
By
Hunter Pope
Editors
note: Smoky Mountain News writer Hunter Pope and his bride
Kirstie are honeymooning out West by attending as many musical events
as humanly possible while also taking in whatever sideshows their
travels bring. This is the third in a continuing series.
I
swore I heard Charles Darwin laughing. He had overtaken the body
of Pastor Mustard, a lanky drink of water whos the annual
emcee of the Telluride Bluegrass Festival. The group on stage around
him had sadistic grins on their face, much like the ones envisioned
after a rousing cock fight. They were there to see us run for our
lives for a coveted spot on the lawn. Locals and the courageous
call it the Tarp Run, an annual event that places music junkies
against each other. Once the 9 a.m. gate is released, its
a mad scramble for pristine property in front of the pluckers. An
errant slip equates into a trampling by a herd of rugged boots or
Birkenstock soles.
Why was I risking my neck? Yes, I love music, but not enough to
die in the bluegrass trenches. I was suckered (by a dear friend)
into making the dash of idiocy across the field. The suckering began
innocently the night before.
Somehow in the midst of cocktails, dust storms and elevations
hallucinations, Kirstie and I were suckered into line duty (much
like those poor saps you see camping out for elusive Series tickets).
In order to get a close glimpse of the musicians, one must brave
the Telluride weather (30 degrees or less during the summer) for
a night. We tried to trump out with the but were on
our honeymoon card, but we only succeeded in getting a rouse
of chuckles followed by get in line, newlyweds.
However, we were sixth in line, and we were serenaded all night
by a core of Jackson Hole musicians whom we had the pleasure of
camping next to all weekend. Sleep was fitful, but I awoke early
and proud that I could contribute to my fellow campers. My duty
was done.
Hold on, slacker, my friend Mary Eliza exclaimed as
she handed me an allergy-filled blanket. You still have to
do the Tarp Run.
Tarp Run? I looked around the line, seeing desperate eyes hidden
above nervous grins. The line thickened like frozen molasses as
we were corralled into the starting gate. We came around the bend
and in view of the main stage. From the stage I got my first view
of Pastor Mustard. His hands seemed to be wringing back and forth
in a diabolical manner. Elbows appeared and sweat turned cold as
the pastor told us to go for it.
Using tact as an ally, I followed the burliest duo in the bunch.
Their mass created a flesh tunnel. By bouncing smaller mortals to
the side, they created a human culvert I could jaunt through. It
was still tricky. My elbow switch-bladed out to greet a would be
passer. The elbow was purely primal. My personality type is B,
but some caveman mechanism spurred my elbow to create a painful
blockade.
I almost didnt notice the poor sap who fell, inches from my
dashing feet. Instinct willed my pedals into a hurdle postion as
I lofted over the crumpled (loser) runner. My view was clear. The
middle front section became property of the allergy blanket. I high-fived
my burly conspirators, and (for a brief moment) felt like a dominant
species. I puffed my chest at the lesser tarp layers, laughing at
their petty attempt at frontness. I had conquered the Tarp Run.
My duty was done for the weekend.
Little did I know that the music would take as much out of me as
the friendly dash. Each performer ends and starts promptly.
The span between acts is minuscule —15 minutes to grab a cold
(beer) beverage, discuss the last act, and wolf down whatever leftovers
hadnt been waterlogged by the cooler. By the time Dr. Ralph
Stanley and the Clinch Mountain Boys made their appearance Sunday
night, I was waving the white flag for sensory surrender.
I blame it all on Robert Randolph and the Family Band. They were
the first act I saw on Thursday and they put an octane in my bloodstream
that wouldnt abate for four days. Latticing rock-roll, gospel,
R&B, jazz, and funk, Randolph and company turned the fairgrounds
into a 10-acre revival. Raised in the Pentecostal Church, the 24-year-old
Randolph honed his Sunday Specialty on the pedal steel, aka the
sacred steel. If Jimi Hendrix was alive (and Randolph summoned his
spirit with Voodoo Chile), I believe his brow would
be sweat-beaded with jealousy. Even the hardcore bluegrass fans
who barely move from their observant seats were making movements
that resembled an exorcism.
I felt sorry for whoever had to follow Randolph on the bill. Well,
that is until I saw who was next — the Del McCoury Band. Whatever
flames Robert left behind, Del and the boys only added white fuel.
Perhaps my favorite bluegrass band, they epitomize bluegrass —
three-piece duds, request-takers, never-ending smiles, and picking
that makes Colorados drought look like a water park.
Del (aka the Silver Fox) had that pining voice that made all of
us quiver. His son, Ronnie, is a mandolin virtuoso, a titan at his
position with some of the cleanest chops in the business. Actually,
the whole band is clean, its just that listeners gets a nasty
look on their faces (kind of like biting into a BBQ Rib drenched
in lemon) when the boys set into a hoedown. They were the starting
gun for the bluegrass that would unfurl all weekend. Although, the
band smiled the whole time, I could tell that their minds were saying,
Alright, bluegrass buddies, try and top that!
Ben Harper was next. Popular on every radio and girls mind,
I expected the songwriter/prodigy guitarist to roll into Telluride
with a glitter posse. What I got was a very humble man with a tremendous
respect for the festival. With homage to all the pickers before
him, Harper did a solo acoustic set with only his drummer provoding
a backdrop. Mellow in every sense, Harper delicately made his way
through one soul-burner after another. The dancing abated as the
charisma from stage made 10,000 of us watch in revered silence.
Still feeling the Tarp Run, I snuck back to my tent for the only
good night of sleep I would have the whole festival. I believe there
was a hidden rule at the campground that fined anyone who had a
good night of sleep.
Friday was a burner. Our tent could have cooked a cake by 8 a.m.,
and we scrambled out of tent for coolness under the shade tarp.
Showers were hard to come by. The line was long and it cost $1.50
to have a five minute tease of lukewarm water. Neglecting hygiene,
we headed for the waterfall located inside the campground. The icy
shower dared whire-chested bravados to take a dip in the glacier
fed springs. Most wilt at the challenge. The key was not to think
about it. Erase the mind of thought and dive in. Each dipper (including
myself) came back with a minor case of hypothermia, a red fleshy
beacon that reminds the five-second swimmer that this was not Saturday
afternoon pool side.
All around us were white flakes that came off the mountain in a
flurry. Discounting snow (the sky was blue and it was already 80
degrees), I surmised that the ash from the fires in Glenwood Springs
(80 miles away) had made its way to Telluride. Wrong again. June
is the time when all the cottonwood trees bloom in the San Juan
Mountains. Tiny puffs of cotton balls no bigger than a horsefly
come down the mountain and fill the Telluride with faux snow. The
cotton blizzard would remain throughout our stay and they only stopped
when we reached the desert climate of Moab.
Anyway, the water unclogged my senses and got me ready for a Friday
music lineup that would leave me battered. We battled our way through
the cotton storm and into the fairgrounds. It would end up being
the most incredible day of music Ive ever witnessed. (Continued
next week.)
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