Editor’s note: This is a regular feature on gardening by the Haywood County master gardeners. Look for it every other week.

Blueberries are a great food. Not only are they delicious, but they rank first in antioxidant content among all fresh fruits and vegetables. The attractive bushes have spring blossoms, summer fruit, and striking fall color. They can be used in the landscape as hedges for screening, and rarely need pesticides for insect or disease control. Best of all, blueberries are easy to grow in the home garden, if the plants are given a good start.

Varieties

Choose highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) blueberry varieties. These grow well in the mountains. Popular highbush varieties include Duke, Sunrise, Earliblue, Blueray, Bluecrop, Jersey, Patriot, Toro, and Berkeley. Plant more than one variety to provide cross-pollination for maximum yield. Do not plant rabbiteye (V. ashei) types.

Planting

Plant in an area with excellent drainage; avoid low areas that stay wet after heavy rains. Full sun is best. They will do reasonably well in partial shade, although the crop will be reduced. Blueberries require a lower pH (4.0 to 5.0) than most other crops. Get a soil test, and treat the planting area according to the test recommendations. The plants are shallow rooted, and will get a better start if you incorporate organic matter into the top 6 to 8 inches of the soil.

Plant 4 to 5 feet apart at the same depth that the plants were growing in the nursery. Cut back about two thirds of the top growth, leaving only 2 or 3 of the most vigorous upright branches. Mulch with wood chips, bark, or pine needles.

First Year Care

When the leaves reach full size use 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 or an equivalent amount of azalea fertilizer per bush, scattered a foot or so from the plant. Repeat every six weeks through July. Be careful: blueberries are easily damaged by excess fertilizer.

Now comes the most difficult step in establishing a blueberry patch. Flower buds appear in spring, and your mouth starts to water in anticipation of a first crop. Patience is essential at this point. Early fruiting puts stress on young plants, so remove all flower buds the first two years. This forces the plants to concentrate on root growth. You will be rewarded later.

Water thoroughly each week. Avoid more frequent watering, which can promote root rot.

Continuing Care

Each year prune old and diseased stems to the ground in late winter or early spring, and cut back very tall shoots to promote branching. Pruning will control the size of the bush, increase fruit size, and prevent over cropping that would shorten the life of the bush. Double the fertilization rate above. Recheck the soil pH.

Allow the bushes to bear fruit the third year. Within a few years they should produce 8 pounds or more of berries per plant. Well-sited plants can last 20 to 30 years, although severe pruning for renewal may be required every 8 to 10 years. Birds love to eat blueberries, and can wipe out a small planting almost overnight. The only good control is to cover the plants with bird netting while the fruit is ripening. Drape the netting on the plants directly or support with a frame. Adjust or move the netting carefully to avoid tearing blossoms or fruit off the bush.

My 3-year-old blueberry patch has nine plants of three different varieties. The first crop is this year, and right now I’m getting about a quart of ripe berries every other day. Many of the berries don’t make it as far as the kitchen, but are consumed in the patch. Does anyone have a recipe for getting blueberry stains out of a golf shirt?

The Haywood County Extension Center has an excellent pamphlet on planting, growing, and pruning blueberries. For more information call the Center at 828.456.3575.