| |
<< Back
12/4/02
The
grand attraction of waterways
By
George Ellison
Visions!
omens! hallucinations! miracles!
Gone down the American river ...
Dreams! adorations! illuminations!
Real holy laughter in the river!
Down to the river!
— Allen Ginsburgs Howl
The
other day my wife, Elizabeth, and I were riding around when we got
into a highly philosophical discussion about how to define a branch,
a creek, and river. My answer was that if its something you
can step or jump over its a branch. If you cant jump
over it but can easily toss a rock across it, its a creek.
If you cant easily throw a rock across it, it has become a
river.
Elizabeth wasnt particularly overwhelmed by the brilliance
of these definitions. But we had a good time playing around with
it, so she suggested that I write a Back Then column about waterways.
Since I know from conducting natural history workshops that many
folks are interested in this sort of thing, I said that I would.
And here it is.
When talking about the waterways of the Smokies region, I like to
start with the big picture. By this I mean the Eastern Continental
Divide. Most folks reading this column live west of the Eastern
Continental Divide. Anyone reading living west of Asheville and
west of Cashiers and Highlands falls into this range. In other words,
the water in our main rivers like the Hiwassee, Little Tennessee,
Tuckaseigee, and Pigeon, are ultimately flowing into Gulf of Mexico
via the Tennessee, Ohio, and Mississippi river systems.
Those of you living in Jackson and Macon counties east of Cashiers
and Highlands probably reside east of the Eastern Continental Divide.
This means that your creeks are part of the headwaters of the Chattooga
River system, which ultimately flows into the Atlantic Ocean via
the Savannah River system.
There are places along the crest of the Eastern Continental Divide
where springs not more than 50 feet apart disperse their waters
separately into the Gulf and the Atlantic. A person living in the
Cashiers-Highlands area could easily cross the Eastern Continental
Divide 10 times during a work day and not be aware of it.
All permanent waterways begin as subterranean entities known as
water tables. These form the top of the zone of underground saturation.
Water tables are generally in motion, emerging at the places we
know as seepage areas (seeps) or spring heads. (Seepage areas can
sometimes be comprised of an entire cliff side, as is the case along
the Blue Ridge Parkway across from the Wolf Mountain overlook.)
The ultimate head of mighty river can sometimes be a mere damp spot
in the ground.
To my way of thinking, the water flowing from a spring head or seepage
area is a rivulet. It then becomes a brook or branch. As several
branches come together at a fork, the waterway becomes a creek.
Finally it becomes a river.
Much of our economy is based on turbulent areas in our rivers, especially
the Nantahala. We call it the whitewater industry.
Think of the varied habitats we have along our branches, creeks,
and rivers: waterfalls, marshes, swamps, bogs, ponds, lakes, sloughs,
and so on.
Because this region was never scoured by glacial ice, we have very
few natural impoundments of waters in ponds and lakes; indeed, most
were established as recently as the 20th century.
Waterfalls are one of the regions grand attractions. Each
waterfall has its own plunge pool and spray zone. With their perpetual
motion and constant sounds, waterfalls sometimes seem to be living
entities.
Defining wetland areas can get complicated. Heres a simple
way to think about them. If its a wetland comprised primarily
of grasses and sedges (and very little if any sphagnum moss), its
a marsh. If its a wetland periodically flooded and comprised
primarily of shrubs and trees (and very little if any sphagnum moss),
its a swamp. If its a wetland dominated by sphagnum
moss, its a bog. In reality, many wetlands are combinations
of these types.
The topography of our mountain region is, of course, defined primarily
by waterways. For instance, the Great Smoky Mountains are considered
to be a single, integral mountain range because — even though
there are numerous creeks on both the Tennessee and North Carolina
sides — no waterway crosses it. The Smokies are defined as
a range by the Pigeon River on its northeastern end and the Little
Tennessee River (now mostly TVA impoundments) on its southwestern
end.
Springs, branches, creeks, and rivers provide the very life-blood
of our region. The Cherokees personalized each waterway by calling
it The Long Man. These streaming entities had their heads in the
mountains and their feet in the ocean. During their ceremonial going
to water rituals, the Cherokees often visited waterfalls because
there they could hear the Long Man speaking to them.
George Ellison is a writer who lives in Bryson City. He wrote
the biographical introductions for the reissues of two Appalachian
classics: Horace Kepharts Our Southern Highlanders
and James Mooneys History, Myths, and Sacred Formulas of
the Cherokees. Readers can contact him at P.O. Box 1262, Bryson
City, N.C. 28713, or at ellisongeorge@cs.com
|
|