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12/25/02
Zoro's
Field: Life at the End of the Road
By
Thomas Crowe
[This is the first monthly installment of a book by Tuckasegee
writer Thomas Crowe. Each month we will publish a new chapter from
Crowes nature memoir titled Zoros Field, about a mans
experiences living self-sufficiently in the woods (wild).]
In
1979, I moved from northern California back to my boyhood home of
Western North Carolina — to a cabin deep in the woods along
the Green River in Polk County, not far from the town of Saluda.
There, in this cabin — which I had helped an old mountain
man named Walt Johnson build years before — I lived, for four
years, a kind of Walden-like life of my own. Without electricity,
without any sort of monetary income, without modern-day transportation,
I lived self-sufficiently there on property that had, generations
before, belonged to the Guice family and had been a working mountain
farm. During these years I worked, walked the woods, and wrote in
a journal about my daily activities and my thoughts on living this
solitary life.
Now, some 20 years later, I find myself going back into my writings
and my memories of those halcyon years lived outside of the American
mainstream, and responding to the encouragement of friends and family
have undertaken the task of writing a book to try and capture a
life as it was lived in and of the natural world. A book in praise
of a way of life in these Southern Appalachian mountains that has
all but disappeared, as well as in praise of wilderness and things
wild. With the 150th anniversary of the publication of Thoreaus
Walden coming up in the year 2004, the timing would seem to be right
for such a book.
In monthly installments, here in the Smoky Mountain News, I will
be writing chapters that chronicle my life and work in the woods
of Polk County through the cycle of the four seasons, writing insightful
stories that give a flare and flavor for the people and the place,
and will include essays that mirror these four years from a philosophical
and sometimes ideological perspective — addressing questions
pertaining to the subjects of nature, community, ecological issues
and nature-based spirituality. The first-person-present tense narrative,
based on my journals and my memories of those years, will be the
steady, foundational thread that runs through the chapters that
document this sojourn into the wild world. As in Walden, there will
be a weaving of perspectives, tones, and subjects, yet all of it
will be based on my actual hands-on, day-to-day experiences in relation
to my natural surroundings at the time.
In the installments in the coming weeks and months, there will be
chapters devoted to some of the practical aspects of living self-sufficiently
and alone that include: Solitude, Tools,
Digging A Root Cellar, Gathering Wood, Fishing,
Weather, Food, The Mountain Garden,
Garden Pests, Keeping Bees, and Making
Homebrew. On the more contemplative and philosophical side
of the coin, there will be chapters on such subjects as: Place
& Home, Re-inhabitation, Simplicity,
Mountain Language, Natural vs. Man-Made Time,
and The Importance of Balance and the Environment. Photos,
taken from my back-to-the-land experience during the early 1980s,
will also accompany the installment chapters, to shed something
of a visual light on where I was, what I was doing, and how it looked.
Having established a frame of reference for the memories and musings
on my life in the Polk County woods that will appear in these pages
in the coming months, please join me, then, in my journey back,
some 20 years, to a more pristine and natural life lived at a much
slower pace, in my cabin next to Zoros field.
Thomas Crowe Tuckaseegee (July 2002)
Part I.
Preface
While sitting on his front porch looking out over the hills surrounding
the Green River Gorge where his kin had farmed and fought the landscape
and the elements for generations, and talking about the old
days,
local legend and mountain sage Zoro Guice turned to me and said,
The best way to learn about nature and these mountains is
to just go out into the woods and set down in one spot and let the
nature and the teachings come to you. A man dont need to go
searching for smarts here in these hills. All he needs is a little
patience. If a man goes out in the woods and just sets down in one
place for long enough, all of natures critters and everything
he needs to know will eventually pass before him like a parade.
Just as Zoro suggested, I have planted myself in this little cabin
beside his old family homestead garden field and watched as the
world of Nature and its parade of weather and wildlife, like Yeats
horsemen, pass by .... like chapters in the book of these years
spent in a writers solitude on the edge, yet outside of, the
civilized world. And here I remain.
During these years of isolation I have come to believe that we must
go home again. Whether home is, quite literally, from where we are
native or, elsewhere, where our place-based imagination resides.
To return as new natives to do the work. The real
work, as my California friend and mentor Gary Snyder says.
The work that puts blisters and then smooth calluses on the hands
and mind as we strive to work reciprocally and in balance and harmony
with the native people and the land. The kind of work that is collected
and referenced in the libraries of the lives of elder men and women,
who have spent long lifetimes in one place learning and applying
that knowledge to an agrarian and nature-based style of life. Knowledge
taught and learned, protected and passed down, from generation to
generation, bits of which are now being passed down to me, as I
struggle willingly and with wonder at self-sufficiency, from a world
soon to disappear.
I have come home again. Come back to the rural essences of my boyhood
— where my early friends had been sons of farmers, or mill
hands who grew large gardens and where I had grown up in tobacco
fields and potato patches, picking beans, shucking corn and carrying
water from a well ... Back to the rural mountain highlands of Western
North Carolina where things are familiar, and from where I now write.
As I write these words, I think of Emerson. I remember when I was
really not much more than a boy, reading his essay Nature,
in which he says:
To go into solitude, a man needs to retire as much from
his chamber as from society. I am not solitary whilst I read and
write, though nobody is with me. But if a man would be alone let
him look at the stars! In the woods, too, a man casts off his years,
as the snake his slough, and at what period soever of life is always
a child. In the woods is perpetual youth.
Emersons ideas come back to haunt me, these days, as I stand
at rest in my garden field leaning on my hoe, or as I prepare the
fire to cook my evening meal. And I wonder if it wasnt these
same lines that drove Thoreau, also, into the woods! In this sense,
Emerson has been an inspiration and catalyst to us both —
a torch light and helping hand to Thoreaus two years spent
on Walden Pond, and an appetent and muse to these years I have labored
and slept in my little mountain cabin by Zoros field —
trying to complete what Thoreau started almost one-hundred-and-fifty
years ago and to take his experience of the body and its toil of
work and reflections deeper into the heart and soul of the woods
... in amongst the big trees and dark hollers of the natural world
and the world of the human spirit. To live twice the time he did
at the edge of Walden Pond — to give myself a realistic opportunity
to take the Walden experience and the life of relative seclusion
a step further, two full seasonal cycles deeper into the heart and
spirit of self-sufficiency and simple-living, into the soul of the
wild. To discover, first-hand, the path to a greater sense of self-confidence
and to replace an unnatural, urbane psychological fear with a common
sense familiarity based on observation, all the while, living at
the speed of life. [Note: By familiar, I mean recognizing
and knowing ourselves and excelling in an environment in which we
are truly, profoundly aware of our surroundings. One can not naturally
and easily excel when constantly in sideways motion and trouble-shooting
mode, trying to find ones way out of the predicament of being
in new territory and therefore, being lost. This applies directly
to the idea of living in nature or in one place for a long time
and knowing that place well.]
After years of wandering this continent and others, I have returned
to this small cabin in the woods — where I live along the
Green River near the great granite geologic confluence known as
the Blue Wall and the North Carolina-South Carolina
border. For almost four years, with the gift of a roof over my head,
a small woodstove, and enough cleared land to garden, this has been
my home.
My physical year has consisted of, firstly, nine months of laboring
with and in the earth. Sewing seeds. Stewarding the wild and domestic
life in a small ecosystem that is my sustenance. Harvesting and
laying by food and firewood for the winter ... This
being the work of living in the wild from March through November.
With the onset of cold weather late in the fall, I find that I am
more than ready for the three months of hard labor within
the confines of the cabin and the walls of the mind. Months that
nurture reading, writing, pondering (what the mountain people refer
to as studying), and walking the woods ... to let thoughts
and ideas settle like the rich lees in an old mountain
jug of scuppernong wine. To allow mental gravity to
lodge into a place of calm understanding. The winter months, therefore,
have been a time of exploring the wild world of image, symbol and
metaphor as well as the genesis of imagined speech and inquiries
into what my Cherokee friends call The Great Mystery.
Then, with the first signs of green and red buds on the trees and
vines in late March — and exhausted from mind work, and with
my body calling out for exercise and attention — I have, year
after year, emerged from my small mountain cabin, with hoe in hand.
Drawn again (like to a sirens song) to the dirt. Poems
on the back of a hoe ... my friend Jack Hirschman wrote to
me recently from San Francisco in reference to new poems I had sent
him from the woods. Poems that reflect and mirror a voice that has
found its wisdom in the nine-and-three month annual calendrical
cycle of letting the body and the mind live freely and simply at
natures pace. A memory dance that my body and my mind play
here in the wild Polk County woods and its subterranean world of
silence that is not only familiar, but genetic; is lyrical, is song.
As I sit here writing these words, it seems to me as if Ive
been here my whole life — such is the way time has stood still
for me these past four years, stretching out to meet the seasons
... one at a time, until life has become almost timeless and everything
seems to merge into a larger, seamless kind of clock.
A clock that never ticks, yet whose hands keep on turning.
Like the old scripture says: to every season, turn, turn,
turn ... Now, the years seem more like days were when living
in the world of machines and commerce, and days expand quietly and
slowly into gentle years. Here in these woods, living at the pace
of nature has slowed life down from a horserace to a stroll. From
a rush to a ripple on the wind. What a difference this is! What
a change it has made in my overall perspective of things and on
my state of mind!
Here, the deer and the dove go about their business at the same
speed. Neither weary of the others close proximity, they seem
content to share the same space — neither possessive nor greedy
for the right to food or a quiet place to graze and sleep. Watching
them, I have tried to learn the hospitality of their ways. Their
acceptance of one another. Their willingness to share. How much
we humans can learn from our wilder neighbors! There are lessons
for us in everything they do. In this, we would often do better
to use a little less of this expanded brain of ours and act according
to the dictates of our cellular memory. Let the wildness of our
distant beginnings guide us as we make our way through life and
the world around us. At least these are my thoughts as I make my
way through the days that make up the seasons of each year and the
necessary, yet gratifying, work that fills these days and that has,
in this small green universe of plants and animals, been my life
as I have lived here next to Zoros field.
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